The future of our coast is going to be a major environmental cause, the way stopping whale hunts, banning DDT, and fixing the ozone layer were. We won those, and we can win this one too. But it will take massive participation by surfers. This is about literally every surf spot, on every coastline, you’ve ever known. Sea levels are rising. So must we.
"Everytihng is bigger in Alaska. You don't take bug spray when you go camping, you take a gun. You don't hike to your line, you take a helicopter. The sloughs here would be called avalanches back home, and the avalanches, natural disasters."
"We were at a wedding and they served Chilean Sea Bass and we went, 'Oh fuck.' And yeah, we ate it. But how do you get people to change even after you've communicated that they're catching the very last fish?"
"At a high mountain border crossing in a snowstorm we were detained. Unable to cross to Argentina or return to Chile, we had tea with the police in their deserted station. We later got to Argentina on the same flight as the Uruguayan rugby team that, after crashing, resorted to eating their dead."
"Our push to go to the moon wasn't motivated by finding clean energy, bringing global peace, or curing cancer. We went there because it inspired people. Not just Americans -- it was an accomplishment for humanity. Aquarius motivates us to look inward instead of skyward, to find an even greater sense of pride than landing on the foreign soil of the moon: understanding our home."
"I could see the scene on the tarmac: 'On your toes everybody! we have a surfer from California who wants us to be extra careful with his board!' they would laugh as they crushed my board under the wheels of their luggage cart."
It's the imperfections in a coastline, the cobblestone points, the river mouths, the breaks in symmetry that make great waves. So here's to living in a universe ruled by simple, elegant symmetrical laws...and the asymmetrical anomalies that break them.