The future of our coast is going to be a major environmental cause, the way stopping whale hunts, banning DDT, and fixing the ozone layer were. We won those, and we can win this one too. But it will take massive participation by surfers. This is about literally every surf spot, on every coastline, you’ve ever known. Sea levels are rising. So must we.
"Our push to go to the moon wasn't motivated by finding clean energy, bringing global peace, or curing cancer. We went there because it inspired people. Not just Americans -- it was an accomplishment for humanity. Aquarius motivates us to look inward instead of skyward, to find an even greater sense of pride than landing on the foreign soil of the moon: understanding our home."
"At a high mountain border crossing in a snowstorm we were detained. Unable to cross to Argentina or return to Chile, we had tea with the police in their deserted station. We later got to Argentina on the same flight as the Uruguayan rugby team that, after crashing, resorted to eating their dead."